After spending time on the Amalfi Coast it was time to head inland to visit our good friend Cheryl Morgan. Cheryl fell in love with Italy years ago and it was always her dream to buy a home there and do her version of Under The Tuscan Sun. So about four or five years ago, during one of her visits, she bought a house near a lake southeast of Rome in a little town named Posta Fibreno. Not only did she turn her new home into a lovely retreat, two years ago she bought another house nearby. When we heard she was remodeling it and making it available to guests, we figured it was time for us to visit. And it was just the sanctuary we needed for a few days.
Joining a few of Cheryl’s friends for Happy Hour in nearby Arpino.
The area is a lovely small town that feels calm and peaceful after the frantic pace around the Positano Peninsula. Located in a mountain range at an elevation of 1,400 feet it is surrounded by forests and green meadows. At the present time Cheryl only visits once or twice a year but eventually hopes to spend the entire summer months out of the desert heat in a place she loves. She has also managed to meet some great people there with a growing circle of friends to keep her company. Plus she hopes to host many of her U.S. friends there as well. We were given the honor of being the first to stay in her new property and it rated very high in terms of beauty, comfort and amenities. Of course it helps that she is a designer by profession!
After a few very relaxing days it was time to head to our final stop in Italy–Rome. We’d been to Rome a number of years ago and already seen all the major sites so this time we just planned to wander around and enjoy the atmosphere. As it turned out the weather was very warm and the city was very, very crowded. And while we might be used to warm weather because we live in the desert, this warm was extremely humid. We ended up taking our walks in the morning, and then later when the sun was almost down and spent most of the afternoon in our air-conditioned rental. Oh and we did our best to stay away from the crowds.
At Plaza Navona
Three days later it was almost a relief to head to the airport on our last day in Italy. Our plane was delayed an hour but after hearing all the news about airport disruptions we felt that was no big deal. Checkin, security and even a 24 hour COVID test (necessary to fly to Portugal) were extremely easy and the crowds at the airport were smaller than many we encountered in Rome. And yes, we wore our face masks much of the time.
Dancing the night away in the Plaza of Arpino, Italy with Cheryl.
A big highlight of our time in Posta Fibreno was meeting some of Cheryl’s friends. She also showed us a few of the local attractions (a famous monastery and a gorgeous mountain top town) but one evening she took me dancing! Those of you who know me personally know that a chance to dance in an open square in a small town to a great band was a huge treat!
Overall we had a wonderful time visiting southern Italy. Such a pleasure to see places that I’d only read about in the past. The history is amazing, the people warm and friendly and countryside beautiful. Italy is a country everyone needs to visit at least once in their lifetime.
Next, the adventure continues in Portugal.
Hi Kathy I am truly enjoying your travels. How awesome to have a friend there and dancing in the open square sounds so fun. Looking forward to Portugal!!
great article and phots are just amazing! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Anna!
What fun! Always nice to have a friend to visit and have fun with. A friend of mine is considering retiring to Portugal, so I’ll share all your Portugal posts with her! I look forward to hearing all about it and seeing more wonderful photos.
Hi Galen! Yes Portugal is a popular place for many expats…and one reason we wanted to come here is because we are considering it for a longer summer stay in the future. That’s why we are staying in a number of different locations this visit to see where we like “the best.” New posts coming soon! ~Kathy
Hi Kathy,
Posta Fibreno/Arpino look so inviting and charming. Glad you were able to connect with your friend and make some new ones in the process. I don’t like crowds, either. Never have really. And you are right, we’ll have to get used to it again after the isolation of COVID. 🙂 Your pictures make everything come to life and show what the experience of Italy and Rome are. Thank you for sharing!
On a personal note, you said you had to get a 24 hour COVID test to go to Portugal. Where did you get it done and what did it cost if you don’t mind me asking? You’re like our tour guide as to the best way to get to Portugal. Hopefully, by the time we leave to go that requirement will have dropped. However, it’s always better to be prepared for any situation.
Looking forward to your take on Portugal and the places you’re going to visit!
Hi Debbie! I’m sure that you’ve heard by now that just a couple of days after we arrived Portugal removed the need for the test. But thankfully the airport in Rome made it very easy and pretty inexpensive. (20 E each).
And yes the number of people around us was higher in Rome than anywhere we’ve been (including the airports!) And at the airports everyone was still wearing masks. (at least most were) but in Rome hardly anyone. Luckily now here in Portugal (even in Sintra) it doesn’t seem as crowded. By the time you get here it will be better for sure. ~Kathy
Thanks, Kathy, for all that valuable information! Looking forward to seeing your and Thom’s take on Portugal! Enjoy! 🙂
I was in Rome many years ago. Maybe it’s time for another visit. And if I go I’m definitely taking a side trip to Posta Fibreno. It looks fabulous!
Hi Tom. Yes Rome can be great but watch the weather. I’m thinking off season is the only way to do it again. Of course, according to Cheryl Posta Fibreno gets pretty chilly in winter so best to pick shoulder season next time. For weather chasers like me, we’ll have to plan accordingly with all the climate changes happening around the world. ~Kathy
Thank you – I have so much enjoyed my highlights of Italy tour visiting both familiar and new places. I hardly need tell you that I am, of course, now looking forward to Portugal.
Hi Caree! Thanks for letting me know you’ve enjoyed my pictures and commentary. But living in the UK I’ll bet you’ve visited most all these places yourself. I guess I should have asked for some of YOUR highlights before coming. Any tips about Portugal? ~Kathy
Hi, Kathy — Oh, I can imagine Rome in the heat and crowds — I’d hate it! My husband and I were so lucky to go during April, when it was lovely and relatively quiet. I’ll be interested to read about your experiences in Portugal, which I’ve heard so much about. As the inimitable Rick Steves says, Keep on travelin’!
HI Nancy! Yeah, our visit to Rome this time definitely made me reconsider coming back any time soon. I would strongly suggest to anyone that in the future they come either in the fall, winter or spring if they want to enjoy walking around outside! It is an amazing city and hopefully the crowds die down during those times. I just think so many people (LOTS of Europeans and those from the US and Canada) are pent up and just want to GO. So popular places are particularly crowded right now. It will be interesting to see how all the cancelled and delayed flights affect it all??? And yes to Portugal! Expect a new post very soon! ~Kathy
Hi, Kathy and Tom – I have absolutely loved following your adventures so far and am so pleased that you ended your trip in Rome (one of my favourite cities). I also love Portugal and greatly await your photos from there.
Hi Donna! Did you ever encounter the heat of Rome in the summer? Thom and I were wondering if it was because we are “older” that it discouraged us from doing much. And like I mentioned to Liesbet, with so many younger tourists and families rushing from historical sight to historical sight that it lost its luster for us. We did hear LOTS more American accents than we have any other place on our trip as well as languages from all over. About the only nationality that seemed under-represented was those from China. Clearly they aren’t traveling much yet. Still, I do feel very fortunate to be able to travel in a way that fits our needs so not complaining. But like I mentioned to Janis, I would suggest others who want to visit there to plan for heat and crowds or come at a different time of year. ~Kathy
Hi, Kathy – Richard and I were last in Rome in late June 2019. We hiked there from Lucca (400 km). We are used to hiking in the heat so I don’t remember it being too hot (perhaps time has distorted reality — not sure).
We are currently in Banff which is beautiful – and filled with tourists.
I would say the number one tourist nationality currently here is Asian (even though many of them, like Creighton, need to do a hotel quarantine when they get back home).
Hi Donna! Yes I remember when you and Richard did the Northern Italian Camino (and wrote about it of course!). But now you need to plan the southern route. I’d just recommend that you come in a cooler season than now! And interesting about the number of Asian tourists. Overall there is a smattering of them here in Portugal but not necessarily from China. Apparently Canada must be very popular right now for those coming from China…although my “survey” isn’t that reliable! ~Kathy
😀
Kathy, how nice to be able to spend time with your friend and even do a bit of street dancing. Rome can be brutal in the heat. Gelato several times a day helps!
Hi Suzanne. Yep about the heat AND the gelato. Last time we came we were there in the fall and the temps were much kinder. Plus all the locals we talked to said it was unusually warm AND humid this early in the summer. I could clearly see why they say that most Romans leave the city in August and go to the coast to get cooler.
But even though Posta Fibreno and Arpino were also warm during the day it cooled off nice in the evening and night so hanging out dancing and eating was great. ~Kathy
And the adventure continues… It looks like you and Thom are having a wonderful time and the opportunity to connect with friends makes it even more enjoyable. Does the Posta Fibreno area have a sizable ex pat community? All of her friends sitting around the happy hour table look like they could have been plucked out of Southern California.
Hi Janis. Yes Posta Fibreno/Arpino does have a “growing” ex pat community. A real key is Kylie, the real estate agent in Arpino that has helped Cheryl find, purchase and even coordinate her renovation work. Although Kylie’s husband is a local Italian she is from Australia. Because she is so outgoing and friendly she naturally connects people so we met others from Australia, The Netherlands, the UK and now along with Cheryl, others from the U.S. It isn’t nearly a big a group as Ajijic MX but it is very diverse. And Happy Hour looks like Happy Hour most places doesn’t it? (except the scenery and the wine!!!) ~Kathy
More and more exciting experiences…
Thanks Gary! Aren’t you getting ready to head out on your summer vacay soon too? ~Kathy
It’s nice to read that you had such a great time in southern Italy. The crowds in Rome would have made me uncomfortable as well. Unfortunately, I have never been there, so will have to face them one day. 🙂
Have fun on Portugal. I’ve been reading and hearing from many a traveler (and expat) enjoying the country.
Hi Liesbet. Yes I was uncomfortable with the crowds in Positano and Amalfi…and then we got to Rome. Like I said in the post I think the heat made it feel even more closed in. Plus on the coast there was always a breeze so the air flow was better. I would STRONGLY recommend to others to come earlier in the spring or later in the fall to attempt to avoid the heat. And as for crowds, I guess (hope) we will all get more used to that in the future so it doesn’t feel so strange plus I got the feeling that many are traveling right now just because they can. Of course from what we observed, not that many people seemed bothered by it (COVID) and were just walking around doing the tourist thing. It also seemed that the vast majority of tourists were in a generation (or two) younger than us (especially in Rome and Amalfi) so there is less concerned.
Still glad we’ve made the trip. Speaking of COVID, it seems to be less an issue here than back home. Of course we haven’t watched any local news and that helps tremendously. ~Kathy