Why Vietnam? Why Cambodia? Why not? My husband Thom and I recently returned from a three-week trip to this part of the world. One of the more exotic locations we’ve explored, this trip was on Thom’s bucket list—and after all, he did turn 65 this year so it was his turn to pick. We’d also had several others tell us about how much they loved this part of the world and why it was worthy of the time and money to visit. So, after much planning and anticipation we experienced a variety of adventure and insights that I thought some of you may enjoying hearing about.
Here are few things I will always remember.
Another World—Literally & Figuratively
One of the greatest things about travel is how it can immerse you in a world dramatically different from the “normal” 24-7 life of an American. I felt it immediately.
We landed in Hanoi, Vietnam after an 18-hour flight in the middle of heavy clouds and rain. Fortunately, we had pre-arranged help with both our Visas and a driver to our hotel, so all we had to do was find them and stick to the plan. After a rain-splattered 30-minute ride from the airport, we arrived in the Old Quarter of the city to a bizarre mixture of people, traffic, chaos, noise, and clutter. Thom’s first thought was that we had landed in a scene from the movie Blade Runner.
Our hotel was a beacon of calm in the storm and that first afternoon we stayed in and tried to catch up on sleep and acclimate ourselves. After a wonderful dinner, a decent night’s sleep and the first of a daily extravagant breakfast buffet, we met up with two young college women from “HanoiKids” for our first look at the city. Although there was still no sun, the streets were dry, and things started to get interesting.
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- Lunch with the Ten & Gem from the “HanoiKids”
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- In front of the Temple of Literature
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- Railroad Street
We did adjust. We spent three nights in Hanoi during the beginning of our trip and then another two at the tail end. The second time we arrived it seemed so much different –and normal even though it was raining again. It is amazing how quickly we humans can adapt to an entirely different world.
Our first visit consisted so much of getting our bearings. Remembering where our hotel was, navigating the narrow and extremely congest streets and non-existent sidewalks, dodging people and finding places to eat in tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurants with few address numbers. And motorbikes—EVERYWHERE! While the streets do have a few cars, there are thousands of motorbikes of every description swarming the streets and parked in any empty space they can find. Sidewalks are actually motorbike parking—and when there is an open space—the motorbikes use them instead of the road.
It took several days but we eventually saw the flow to it all. In spite of the constant traffic there are few horns. Everyone just flows—yes, like bees—but they flow, they don’t fight. Traffic lights (if there are any) are merely suggestions and everyone just moves forward whenever they can. When you want to cross the street, you wait for a brief lull (because it never, ever stops) and then proceed moderately across the road. Although the scooters are coming at you, they register your speed and go around you. Bizarre as it sounds—it works.
Wonders of the World
Something high on our list to do was visiting Halong Bay. We’d seen photos of it through the years and knew it was a “Wow!” Considered to be one of the seven Natural Wonders of the World, it exists a mere two-hour drive from Hanoi. There we spent three days on a ship with approximately 18 other people. In Vietnamese Vinh Ha Long means “descending dragon bay” and this UNESCO Heritage site lives up to all the hype—especially when you visit on a sunny day.
Also considered a “ancient wonder of the world” and something high on my list was Angkor Wat, the UNESCO World Heritage Site in the province of Siem Reap, Cambodia. This structure and its surrounding temples are considered to be the largest collection of religious monuments in the world. Originally built to honor Vishnu, a Hindu God, it eventually transitioned to Buddhism in the 14th or 15th Century. Of particular interest was Angkor Thom. With “Angkor” meaning temple”, Thom was delighted to learn that “Angkor Thom” means the “Great” Temple.
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- In front of Angkor Wat
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- Buddha at Angkor Thom
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- Banteay Srei
Built in the 9th to the 15th Century, these archaeological sites offer amazing sculptural detail and beauty. While we didn’t spend nearly as much time there as was possible, it remains a highlight of our trip.
People & Food
I have never before been so aware of being surrounded by thousands of people of Asian Descent. It was not intimidating or unpleasant in any way—just different. And although I’ve traveled to Mexico a great deal, Europe, and even Egypt, this experience felt different. It’s far too easy for those of us in the U.S. to forget that Asians are approximately 2/3rds of the world population. The presence of China and all Asian countries, and the enormity of their population and politics, feels so much more immediate and real when you are visiting this part of the world.
With that said, the people of both Vietnam and Cambodia are friendly and welcoming. They realize that their country benefits by tourism and are determined to be as helpful and kind as possible. Everywhere we went, from the cities to the tiny hamlets off the Mekong Delta, people were gracious, and the children were adorable.
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- Just a few of the cute kids
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- School girls with Thom
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- Teaching English in school
And all the rumors about the quality, presentation and taste of the food is correct. We managed to squeeze in a food tour on our third evening in Hanoi and it was some of the most amazing Vietnamese food I’ve ever tasted. And yes, we sat on little plastic stools, with motor bikes whizzing by, eating with chop sticks, just like Anthony Bourdain on his TV episodes.
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- The best Pho we ever ate!
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- Doing the Anthony Bourdain thing!
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- View during lunch on Halong Bay
Another huge benefit of the trip was the people we met along the way who were also visiting. It likely goes without saying that when you run into people who are visiting such a location you automatically have something big in common. There were a number of people we met from the U.S., but also others from Canada, the U.K., and Australia. I think sharing unique traveling experiences with others bonds people together around a common adventure. We are hoping that some of our friendships will continue into the future.
Trip Planning
Our trip was a combination of both self-planning and a tour group. Something Thom really wanted to do was cruise on the Mekong Delta. I found a small group cruise with Avalon Waterways. While our time in Hanoi and Halong Bay was planned by me, the majority of the trip was with what we came to call our “Avalon Family.” And while we know of others who just backpacked their way through the country, we were satisfied with our version of travel.
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- Our home for 7 nights
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- Enjoying the sights with some of our Avalon Family
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- Dinner with new friends
We began the Avalon tour in Ho Chi Min City (Saigon) where we stayed three nights in an extravagant Vegas-type hotel named The Reverie Saigon. With a view of the river and busy roadways on the 32nd floor, we did several local tours before joining our ship The Avalon Siem Reap. There with 24 other passengers we sailed up the wide and murky Mekong Delta toward Cambodia.
The best and easiest part of including this mode of travel was that you didn’t have to think about where you were going to sleep, eat, or what you were going to do most days. Most of the 7-days of the cruise portion of the trip we were treated to visits to small villages along the waterfront where we witnessed life for the majority of the 70 million people who live scattered along the river. Another great thing provided was the variety of transportation options. We traveled by Sampan, a cyclo (a three wheeled bicycle), tuk-tuks (a cart behind a motor bike) an oxcart, and of course cars and buses.
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- Traveling by tuk-tuk
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- Just one of our Sampan tours
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- Cyclo travel in Phnom Penh
Another favorite part of the trip turned out to be the small city of Siem Reap. After our cruise we stayed here for two nights in the Park Hyatt which was in an excellent area of the city for the “night market” and the infamous “pub street.” During the day we toured the temples and at night we enjoyed the food and some of the fun parts of the town.
The Downside
The flights to get to Vietnam are long—no way around it. And jet lag has required a weeklong recovery. The other thing to consider is the heat. I purposely selected this time of year because in the Southern part of the country I knew it could get warm, and December is supposed to be the best time of the year. I found that to be relative. To me it was VERY hot and humid and frequently felt our clothing drenched with sweat. While our accommodations had A/C—it is not available on the tours.
The only other thing I didn’t care too much for was all the time we spent in or around cities. We were in Hanoi for 5 nights, Saigon for 3 nights, and Phnom Penn for 2-3 nights. I far prefer the smaller cities or villages. And while I personally like the pace of smaller towns, one fact in the cities you cannot escape—and that is air quality. The cities are filled with vehicle exhaust and smoke from cooking fires, and after a few days it starts irritating the sinuses. There is a big reason why so many wear face-masks. Then even along Mekong we discovered that most families still cook using open-fire which pollutes the air even more. By the end of the trip my nose was in revolt.
Takeaway
I’m so glad we went. We had been talking about this trip for over 10 years on and off. Thom had even wondered if it would be a place we could eventually retire and spend more time. But compared to the 1M expat that live in Mexico, it is estimated that only 100,000 live in Vietnam and they aren’t all from the U.S. I tend to think it is a combination of distance and the contrast of such a different lifestyle. After witnessing the heat of the summer in the south and the quality of the air and water, it isn’t a place we would want to spend more time—and that likely includes even another visit.
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- Fun on Pub Street!
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- A few friends from Halong Bay
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- Sunset on the Mekong
Travel enriches our souls. It exposes us to people, culture, history and food like no amount of reading ever can. It shows me that it is impossible not to recognize that all people everywhere are connected by a desire for peace, kindness, hope and love. I now have a deeper understanding of the politics and conflicts that occurred there in the past, as well as a new awareness of potential challenges facing both countries in the future. Our trip to Vietnam & Cambodia will stay firmly in our hearts, while our memories will always include our time as part of the Avalon Family.
Okay, your turn! Have you ever been to Vietnam, Cambodia or elsewhere in Southeast Asia? What were your strongest impressions? In your opinion, what is the BEST thing about travel. Please share in the comments below!
Kathy, I read about your trip with great interest. I have been wanting to travel to South East Asia ever since my brother took a trip to Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos a few years ago with an adventure tour company. He came back with amazing photos and stories.
Jude
Hi Jude! It is an amazing place that I am so glad I got to see. I don’t think a person can travel to such a unique part of the planet and not see the world a little differently. ~Kathy
I haven’t been back to Hong Kong or Taiwan since 1993! Yikes! I know it is completely different – and am hoping to get back there again soon. My daughter is studying Chinese and hopes to spend a semester or summer program in China at some time – so I’ll “have” to go visit her!
What an amazing trip! It sounds like you did a great job of planning yourself and using a tour for part of the trip. I would be out of my comfort zone planning a trip like this on my own, the way you did it seems like a perfect combination. I need to stretch myself and just go for something like this!
Hi Michele! I think a real key for planning any trip is asking yourself, “Do I enjoy it?” I get almost (not quite as much, but a LOT) of enjoyment out of researching and exploring travel possibilities. Before we even commit to going I usually research it–and then once it’s on I REALLY get going. It does take a lot of time and commitment, that’s why I say it is best if you enjoy it. Otherwise it could seem overwhelming. Fortunately there are more and more sites that offer some form or planning for you so if you don’t want to do it, you just need to google what you think you might like and you’d be amazed at what pops up. I think it also helps that I am fairly frugal. If I think I can get the same (or better) quality for a reduced price, you’d better believe I will do that! And if you ever need a bit of advice–I owe you! Your guest blog post was great and really appreciated. ~Kathy
Hi Kathy, I much enjoyed reading this in that we’ll be leaving to do a similar trip in about seven weeks. It will be our fourth trip to SE Asia, but both Cambodia and Vietnam will be new countries for us. We’ve had nothing but good experiences during our prior SE visits, and the people have been wonderful, so we’re much looking forward to this next trip. And we’ve heard the food in Vietnam is spectacular, so we’re looking forward to that as well.
Hi Tamara! Thank you. And wow! You obviously know a LOT more about travel in that part of the world than I do. I will go to your blog and see what you’ve written about your travels there. And as you say, the people are wonderful in so many ways. And to the obvious question that we get (and I’ll bet you do too) whenever we travel out of country is, “Is it safe?” And the answer is yes! We never once felt threatened or unsafe EVER. Sure some things are a bit confusing but no one ever took advantage of us while we were learning to navigate a new environment. Of course I am a planner so that helps to take some of the questions out of the equation, but again, everyone was super friendly and helpful. As for food, as you likely know a GREAT way to find the best is to go on food tours. The two best food experiences we had were on a food tour AND during a cooking class. Both awesome. Have a wonderful trip! ~Kathy
Kathy, I’m a very lazy blogger about our travels – I post photos and that’s about it! So, instead I’ll share that China was a delightful surprise in that we loved it, warts and all, Thailand was a joy, and I suspect the most similar to what we’ll encounter in Cambodia and Vietnam, and Japan, where we just returned from, was marvelous – safe, clean, modern, quiet, beautiful . . . I could go on and on about Japan!
China’s never been on my list but Japan is a contender. Good to know. Thanks!
Wonderful report, photos, overview and conclusion, Kathy. Quite the “exotic” experience in many ways.
I backpacked in SE Asia twice in my twenties and spend a good few weeks traveling and exploring Vietnam and Cambodia during those years. I’d like to go back and take Mark, but the one thing – other than the beauty of the temples and the good, cheap food – that keeps lingering in my mind is the chaos and crowdedness of the SE Asian cities. You don’t go there to relax! 🙂 You go for the cultural immersion.
Isn’t it amazing how you can (and have to) just start crossing the street in the midst of traffic, yet, everyone weaves around you without a blink of the eye? I do remember those times from Hanoi as well.
Oh, did you end up using Fotor for your galleries?
After your email I realized that my theme had a photo gallery built in like yours. Who would have thought 🙂 Of course all the photos have an odd little line above them and I couldn’t figure out how to get rid of that–but otherwise I was happy! Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi Liesbet! Glad you enjoyed my post. And I’ll bet if you returned you would find that things have changed quite a bit. And that chaos and crowdedness? Wow! That has definitely intensified! But as you say, the sight of those amazing temples and the natural beauty of Halong Bay is amazing. The only places we didnt’ go that I would have liked to is Hoi An and Sapa. I’d heard both of those places were awesome as well. But I wouldn’t be worried about crossing the street OR the mosquitos either (I used bug spray but didn’t get a one the entire time!) ~Kathy
As Tom has suggested, my images of Vietnam are tinged with the information we received non-stop during the Vietnamese war, which, as we all know, was brutal. I have many friends who go there regularly, and tell me how much things have changed, for the absolute better! I’ve spent many holidays in Mexico and Costa Rica, and enjoyed them. Maybe I’ll put Vietnam on my list! Thanks for this Kathy, and I’m glad you ar back!
Hi Diane! Yes, things have definitely changed for the better. The people are all lovely and welcoming and we at no time ever felt threatened or even nervous. It was rather tragic to go through the war museum, but as I said in my other response, we were told a big part of the purpose is to remind everyone of how horrible the effects of war. I think we were told that school children attend it two or three times during the course of their studies. It was sobering for sure. But I was surprised to see how different it was in “feeling” to all the travel we’ve done in Mexico (haven’t been to Costa Rico though). Definitely a different “vibe.” But with that said, i think the rewards of seeing and experiencing such a dramatically different culture is a must for all of us just so we become more aware of how big the world is! ~Kathy
I loved reading this post. These are places that are on my bucket list, but I’m saving them for when Vivi is older. We’ll be in the desert next month and I’d love to catch up and hear more about your adventures.
Hey Liz! Would love to get together with you when you are in town. Just give me a little notice and we will make it happen. And don’t wait too long to go. The cities are growing like crazy, traffic is crazy and like I said in another comment, we were told that 10 years ago there were no building over 3-4 stories and now there are DOZENS with cranes everywhere building more. And because every single person has a motorbike and many still cook using wood fire, the air quality isn’t going to improve any time soon. Don’t wait unless you have to–that’s Thom and I’s motto! See you next month! ~Kathy
Your trip looks and sounds amazing! So glad you were able to do it — I enjoy seeing other people have such amazing experiences! Thanks for sharing and welcome back.
Hi Janet! I know you know a lot about traveling to remote and far-flung locations! I loved hearing about your time in China. How long has it been since you’ve been there now? From what I understand, so much is changing with the rise of capitalism and technology–but there is still that sense in the background of who is in leadership and what their philosophy and ultimate goals are that make things a bit unsettling. Even though a person can read about it, it seems so much more real when you “feel” it. It will be very interesting to see what happens in the future for them, and for all of us of course. And thanks for letting me know you liked my “story” and photos! ~Kathy
Great article and i get to relive my trip through your eyes and pictures. I love both countries and would love to go back. It’s been over 10 years and back then, I don’t remember the air quality being so bad, in China-yes and maybe Vietnam has just caught up with them. I agree about preferring the small towns. For me, I fell in love with Hoi An and that is where I’d like to go back to.
For the person who made the comment about the railroad street — that’s in Thailand. I’ve been there too and it was amazing to watch the sidewalks roll up while the train goes through town.
Hi VJ! I’m glad you liked my photos and impressions. I had hoped to get together with you before the trip but no maybe we should get together for coffee after and compare notes. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to make it to Hoi An although I heard it was wonderful. I think the entire region has changed a GREAT deal in many ways since you were there (I think you said it had been 10 years) but we could still talk about what we enjoyed. And there is a train street in Hanoi–and yes, a train does go through it. I guess it must be fairly popular thing in Southeast Asia! ~Kathy
Thank you so much for sharing your journey (on FB too). That part of the world has never been on my bucket list but when I see images of the temples, Halong Bay, and the railroad street (did you get to see a train go through?), on various social media sites, I think, maybe so. How interesting that half the population is under 25. So many other countries are experiencing the opposite and are worried about having enough young people to support the older population.
I am looking forward to hearing more about your trip.
Hi Janis! No we weren’t there when the train went through but HAD to capture several shots! There are obviously some really awesome sights here but it is a LONG way to travel! And like I said in some of the other comments, we all have many, many choices. And as far as population goes, the life expectancy rates have risen in the last 10 years but between the war and conflicts and then the very difficult living conditions for many people, it really is no surprise that older people aren’t as abundant here. Unfortunately with the air quality conditions that are only going to get worse, added to any climate change issues, and it likely won’t improve too much more. And YES! Looking forward to seeing you and your husband later this month IRL! See you then. ~Kathy
I really enjoyed your post and beautiful pictures!
May not travel to that side of the world, but happy read and hear about your trip there.
Hi Susan! I realize that this part of the world might not appeal to everyone but you never know for sure, right? And not only is it fun for me to write a recap of my travels, but it also helps me revisit and solidify the things I want to remember about my travel. I also take all my photos (over 1,000 between Thom and I!) and make a video slide show whenever we take a big trip like this. It is so rewarding to look back on the trips we’ve taken in the past. And thank YOU! I’m always grateful to hear that people appreciate hearing about it! ~Kathy
I hear cruising the Mekong is a popular river cruise experience. I love your pictures Kathy. Really spending that much time truly gives you a great perspective if you want a followup trip or not as in your case. Had you just been there for a week maybe your conclusion would be different. A friend of mine who was in Viet Nam during the war is a tall woman, freckled and red hair. She says she stuck out because of her height, hair color and there is no word in Vietnamese for freckles only spots. She says other women would feel sorry for her spotted skin and referenced her as the ‘Spotted Woman”. Viva La Difference!!
Hi Haralee! Yes I think about the only way to really experience the delta is to cruise it. I can’t imagine trying to see much of it any other way. And yes, I’m pretty tall and have freckles too — and Thom is tall as well–so we definitely stood out from the crowd. (it sure makes it easier to spot one or another of us when you can see over the top of most people!) And yes, as I responded to Nancy’s comment, I think there are LOTS of variables for travel so that would certainly affect what a person experiences and their impressions. That of course, happens anytime a person travels anywhere so it’s always subject to interpretation. Still, as I said, I’m really glad we went and I LOVE having the opportunity to share my thoughts with everyone and relive the experience. ~Kathy
Hi Kathy,
What an amazing post…Thailand has been on our bucket list, and our soon-to-be-daughter-in-law and her family are from Laos, so that part of the world has been on our radar for a while. But not Vietnam and Cambodia. As a child of the 60s and 70s I remember the war well from news reports – it would be interesting to see that part of the world now. But I got a sense that you now sort of feel “been there, done that, won’t be back.” Hummmm.
Hi Nancy! I’m REALLY glad we went but yes, I do think that once was enough for us. Plus, much of it depends upon what time of year you go, where you go and if you go alone or with others. As you know, there are dozens of variables with travel so one person’s experience isn’t necessarily another person’s. Tons of people do the backpacking and are willing to rough it much more than I am at this age, and also there were a couple of locations that I heard were really special that we just didn’t have time to visit. If you have family/friends in the area that would help you make some of the decisions about when to go and what to see. But with that said, there are so many places worthy of our time that we all have to decide what resonates best with us. Good luck on future choices!! ~~Kathy
It is so valuable to read others’ takes on an area or destination. I can help inform the eventual decision on if to go or, if you do go,where to spend your time.
Hi, Kathy – This post covers some of my absolute favorite travel experiences — Halong Bay, Angkor Wat, Siem Reap….and eating/drinking on little plastic stools in Hanoi. You are absolutely correct – travel does enrich our souls. I am so glad that you and Thom had a fabulous, bucket-list experience. Welcome home!!
Hi Donna! Aren’t those locations amazing? When we next get together we will have to compare notes. I do believe that each of these places deserves a visit–especially before they either deteriorate (Angkor Wat) and/or become overrun by tourists. While there aren’t as many western tourists there, the flood of visitors from China is incredible. Plus, we learned that in the last 10 years alone the amount of building and population increase is exploding. An example is that in Phnom Penh 10 years ago there was only 1 building over 4 or 5 stories. Now there are dozens of high rises (dozens!) and cranes everywhere building more. I also believe (and the people who live there that we asked) also believe that climate change is affecting the entire region as well in a big way. Like I said, the heat at the “best time of year” was rather daunting! So glad we went NOW and didn’t wait for the future. ~Kathy
I am definitely bookmarking your post, Kathy. Vietnam and Cambodia have not been on our bucket list, until now. I was wary about travelling in a crowded location with thousands of motorbikes. I like how you describe that after a few days you saw the flow to it all. The photos of Halong Bay are stunning! A agree how we are all ultimately connected and travel enriches us on many levels. Thank you for sharing this in depth post.
Hi Erika! It was so interesting to learn (at least to me!) that a motorbike is a symbol of “middle class” success there. You only own a standard bicycle if you can’t afford a motorbike. A cars are fairly impractical because there is no where to park and they don’t move nearly as smoothly through the city. It was just amazing how fast we adjust to it and in some ways it was easier than when we were in Cairo because there most of the traffic is cars. Motor bikes are much more flexible. We did not however, although it is considered fun, take a tour on the back on one of them. Thom used to ride motorcycles and he said there is no way he would get on the back of a scooter and let someone navigate him through the city! ~Kathy
Wow! Looks like a wonderful experience. I just love Vietnamese food – I consider myself lucky to have so many Vietnamese restaurants nearby, to eat at. Hmmm, I may need to add a trip to Vietnam to MY bucket list now. Thanks, Kathy and Thom!
Hi Deb! Yes, we eat Vietnamese here locally once in a while but on several occasions we were treated to a much great depth of taste. I’m anxious to go back to see if the local restaurants come anywhere close to matching the tastes we found there. Plus, seeking out the little hole in the wall locations was great fun! ~Kathy
Growing up in the late ’60s and early ’70s, during the height of the Vietnam War, it’s just amazing to me that you fly to Hanoi and hang out in the Mekong Delta. And then you go to Cambodia which I think of as the Khmer Rouge. All I can say is … Give peace a chance!
Hi Tom! Yes it is pretty amazing that things have changed so much in a relatively short amount of time in both countries. Although we did go to the war museum in Saigon with its detail and information (although sighted through the current Vietnamese government) it is still very unsettling. We were told that the purpose is to discourage war and violence for future generations and it sure does. And in Cambodia we did go to The Killing Fields and heard more detail about that atrocity as well. Eerie and sad to realize this all happened not so long ago. But for the most part, I think the population is just attempting to carve out a decent life for themselves now–and it didn’t seem easy. Also, over half the population is younger than 25, so those younger tend to move on much easier. What I found noticeable was the undercurrent of tension about what might happen in the future with the presence of China, Russia and other surrounding countries. I do wish them all well because the people we met everywhere were extremely kind and friendly. ~Kathy